Novembre au jardin potager

The article explains how November’s cold, wet, short days shape vegetable‑garden tasks, then gives clear actions to protect crops and prep for spring. It covers typical weather risks like frost, saturated soil, wind, and low light, and shows how to time work around forecasts, use mulch, cloches, fleece, and low tunnels, and manage watering and ventilation. It lists what to sow and plant now for an early spring—broad beans, hardy peas, winter lettuce, spinach, mâche, garlic, shallots, onions, plus perennials and green manures—and adds spacing and protection tips. It details no‑dig soil care, adding 3–5 cm compost, cleaning beds and tools, improving drainage, testing pH, using manure and leaf mold, and breaking pest cycles with rotation and hygiene. Lastly, it maps simple crop rotation for next season, winter maintenance of paths, tools, irrigation, and structures, ongoing soil building with compost and cover crops, and practical planning tools to schedule successions and reduce disease pressure.

Assess November weather conditions and how they shape tasks in the vegetable garden

November is colder, wetter, and days are short, so you adjust watering, protection, and timing in the vegetable garden.

Typical November weather and direct impacts

• First frosts: light to moderate frost hits tender crops and greens at night.
• Cool days, cold nights: growth slows, so sowings take longer to sprout.
• Rain and soil saturation: heavy rain compacts soil and limits access to beds.
• Short daylight: photosynthesis drops, plants focus on survival not yield.
• Wind and storms: stakes, covers, and tunnels need secure fixing.

Task planning by weather window

• Before a frost night: harvest tender crops, cover salads, bring containers indoors.
• After a rain: avoid digging, lay boards to access, top beds with compost.
• On dry, bright days: weed, mulch, repair paths, set winter protection.
• During cold snaps: ventilate covers mid‑day to prevent humidity diseases, close before dusk.

Protection and water management

• Mulch: straw, leaves, or shredded material to buffer temperature and reduce mud.
• Covers: fleece, cloches, low tunnels to gain a few degrees for salads and spinach.
• Watering: water sparingly on mild mornings only, target roots, avoid evening watering.
• Drainage: clear gutters, add shallow trenches along paths to move water away.

Soil care under November weather

• No-dig approach: spread 3–5 cm compost, let worms work it in over winter.
• Green manures: if soil still mild, sow rye or vetch for cover and structure.
• Avoid compaction: use permanent paths, raised beds help in wet climates.

Cold-hardy choices and timing

• Hardy sowings: broad beans, peas in mild zones, winter lettuce under cover.
• Planting: garlic, shallots, onions in well‑drained beds.
• Perennials: rhubarb crowns, asparagus in suitable climates.

Helpful resources

• Frost and shade cloth for protection
• Mulching with straw
• Efficient watering setup
• Plan crop rotation for winter and spring

What to sow and plant in November for a productive spring

Cold-hardy vegetables to sow

• Broad beans (fava): autumn-sown varieties crop earlier and stronger in spring.
• Peas: choose hardy types, sow under cloches in mild zones.
• Winter lettuce: sow under fleece or a low tunnel for early spring cuts.
• Spinach: germinates in cool soil, protect with fleece in frost-prone areas.
• Lamb’s lettuce (mâche): slow but steady, ideal for cold frames.

Bulbs and alliums to plant

• Garlic: plant cloves in well-drained soil, tip just below the surface.
• Shallots: set out firm bulbs, space well to reduce rot.
• Onions: autumn onion sets establish now for early summer harvest.

Roots and perennials

• Asparagus crowns: plant in prepared trenches for long-term beds.
• Rhubarb crowns: set in rich, draining soil, mulch to settle.
• Jerusalem artichokes: plant tubers where they can stay for years.

Green manures for soil health

• Winter rye: covers and structures soil, dig in late winter.
• Vetch/field beans: fix nitrogen, great before heavy feeders.
• Mustard: quick cover in mild areas, cut before flowering.

Quick reference

Protection and timing tips

• Sow only in draining beds, avoid waterlogged spots to prevent rot.
• Use fleece or shade cloth to add a few degrees on cold nights.
• Mulch lightly with straw to buffer temperature and reduce weeds.
• Water in the morning on mild days, keep seedlings just moist.
• Label rows and note varieties to manage crop rotation.

Good companions and spacing

• Pair garlic with winter lettuce borders to save space.
• Alternate broad bean double rows with paths to improve air flow.
• Give asparagus permanent space away from annual beds.

Helpful resources

• When to add fertilizer in the vegetable garden
• Stakes and supports for winter winds
• Hose and watering setup
• Soil for raised beds

Protect crops from cold with mulch, cloches, and frost covers

Mulch: simple insulation that works

• What to use: straw, shredded leaves, bracken, composted bark, or a thin compost layer.
• How to apply: 3–5 cm around winter salads, spinach, garlic, and roots, keep stems/crowns clear.
• Benefits: buffers soil temp, reduces freeze–thaw heave, limits weeds, cuts splashing and rot.
• When: mulch after a dry day, water first if soil is very dry, top up after heavy wind.
• Extras: use straw mulch on beds and paths to keep mud down.

Cloches: targeted protection for small plants

• Types: individual bell cloches, cut-bottle domes, or tunnel cloches over rows.
• Setup: place on sunny mornings, seal edges with soil or pegs to stop drafts.
• Ventilation: open mid‑day in sun to avoid condensation and mildew, close before dusk.
• Best for: salads, spinach, mâche, young brassicas, early peas.
• Anchoring: use wire pins or sturdy stakes in windy sites.

Frost covers and low tunnels

• Materials: horticultural fleece (17–30 gsm), bubble wrap for structures, clear poly for low tunnels.
• When to deploy: cover at forecast 0 to −3°C for hardy greens, lower for very hardy types.
• Contact vs hoops: lay fleece directly for quick frost nights or use hoops to avoid leaf contact after heavy frost.
• Moisture control: lift edges on mild days to dry leaves and prevent botrytis.
• Combine: mulch soil + fleece on hoops gives 2–4°C gain and steadier temps.

Watering and timing with cold

• Water in the morning before a cold night only if soil is very dry to reduce stress.
• Avoid evening watering to prevent ice on leaves.
• After frost, wait till thaw before removing covers to avoid leaf burn.

Windproofing and maintenance

• Secure fleece edges with soil, sandbags, or boards along the bed.
• Cross-tie hoops, check pegs after storms, repair tears with horticultural tape.
• Keep a spare roll of fleece and clips on hand for sudden cold snaps.
• Use shade/frost cloth to soften sun–frost swings.

Quick choices by crop

• Salads (winter lettuce, mâche): fleece on hoops + light mulch.
• Spinach/chard: direct fleece contact ok for light frost, hoops in hard frost.
• Broad beans: mulch base, fleece during cold snaps, remove to harden on mild days.
• Garlic/shallots: focus on drainage + mulch, cover only in extreme cold.
• Herbs (parsley, chives): cloche for small clumps, vent often.

Helpful resources

• Hose and watering setup
• Optimize garden orientation for winter sun
• When to add fertilizer

Prepare soil, add compost, and clean beds to reduce pests and diseases

Clear, sort, and dispose the right way

• Pull dead plants, yellowed leaves, and rotten fruits to remove pest shelters.
• Bin or burn diseased material (blight, mildew, clubroot), do not compost it.
• Shake soil off roots back onto the bed to keep fertility on-site.
• Lift supports and strings, clean and store dry to avoid fungus carryover.

No-dig prep and compost top-up

• Loosen surface with a fork or broadfork without flipping layers to protect soil life.
• Spread 3–5 cm of mature compost over beds, let worms incorporate over winter.
• Add a light layer of straw or leaves to shield soil from rain impact.
• Use black soap diluted to clean tools and trays after work.

Break pest and disease cycles

• Rotate families: do not replant brassicas, solanaceae, or alliums on the same bed next season.
• Remove fallen brassica leaves and tomato debris to cut slug and fungus pressure.
• Trap slugs with boards and collect in the morning, reduce hiding spots at bed edges.
• Set up bird access and ground cover diversity to boost natural predators.

Soil amendments and pH check

• Test pH quickly with a kit, aim 6.5–7.0 for most veg, adjust slowly if needed.
• Add well-rotted manure 2–3 cm where heavy feeders (corn, squash) will grow next year.
• Use wood ash lightly on beds for potash, avoid fresh ash on seedlings.
• Apply leaf mold to sandy beds to improve water holding through winter.

Drainage and path maintenance

• Rake low channels along paths to move standing water away from beds.
• Top up paths with wood chips or straw to reduce compaction and mud.
• Repair bed edges and re-mark rows for spring layout and crop rotation.

Green manures and cover crops

• Sow winter rye or vetch in open beds before hard freezes to protect soil.
• Chop and drop in late winter, then plant heavy feeders for the nitrogen boost.
• Use mustard only where clubroot is not a risk and cut before flowering.

Extra hygiene and storage

• Store nets and fleece/cloth dry and labeled for quick spring use.
• Disinfect seed trays and modules to reduce damping-off next season.
• Keep compost covered in wet months to retain nutrients.

Helpful resources

• When to add fertilizer in the vegetable garden
• Choosing the right garden soil
• Soil for raised beds
• Common pests in the vegetable garden

Plan crop rotation and winter maintenance to optimize next season

Map your beds and set a simple rotation

• Sketch each bed and list what grew this year to avoid repeats.
• Rotate by families: brassicas, solanaceae, alliums, legumes, roots, cucurbits, leafy greens.
• Keep a 3–4 year gap before replanting the same family to cut disease build‑up.
• Place legumes before heavy feeders to benefit from nitrogen fixation.
• Group thirsty crops near water points and sunniest spots for yield.

Plan your rotation with this quick guide for details and tips.

Mastering crop rotation in your vegetable garden

Winter maintenance checklist

• Repair beds, re-level paths, top with wood chips to prevent compaction.
• Service irrigation and store hoses drained to avoid frost cracks.
• Sharpen and oil tools, disinfect stakes and ties.
• Check and secure tunnels, nets, and fleece/cloth for winter winds.
• Set slug traps, tidy edges, and remove debris to lower pest shelters.

Soil building over winter

• Spread 3–5 cm of compost on each bed, leave undisturbed for worm action.
• Sow cover crops on empty beds: rye, vetch, or field beans if soil is mild.
• Mulch with straw or leaves to protect structure and microbes.
• Use leaf mold on sandy beds and a touch of well‑rotted manure on heavy feeders’ future beds.

Rotation-friendly planting plan for spring

• Bed A (this year tomatoes) → onions/garlic + quick salads on edges.
• Bed B (this year beans) → corn or squash to use the nitrogen bump.
• Bed C (this year cabbage) → peas, then summer lettuces after harvest.
• Bed D (this year roots) → kale and broccoli with a midseason green manure under-sow.

Seeds, timing, and notes

• Order seeds now and label by bed to avoid last‑minute swaps.
• Note first/last frost dates and slot early sowings under cloches.
• Block out successions: early peas → lettuce, garlic harvest → bush beans.

Pest and disease prevention by rotation

• Do not follow brassicas with brassicas to limit clubroot and cabbage fly.
• Avoid solanaceae after potatoes to reduce blight carryover.
• Place alliums away from last year’s onion/garlic to cut down white rot risk.
• Mix flowers like potager flowers for beneficial insects.

Quick planning tools

• Use bed tags and a simple spreadsheet to track families per year.
• Print a one‑page map and keep it in a zip bag in the shed.
• Add water/compost dates and expected harvest windows to stay on schedule.

Helpful resources

• Optimize a small vegetable garden
• Choose the right garden soil
• Soil for raised beds
• Stakes and supports